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At least 559 records · Page 31

Breaking Wave Field Statistics With A Multi-Layer Model

The statistics of breaking wave fields are characterised within a novel multi-layer framework, which generalises the single-layer Saint-Venant system into a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier–Stokes equations. We simulate an ensemble of phase-resolved surface wave fields in physical space, where strong nonlinearities, including directional wave breaking and the subsequent highly rotational flow motion, are modelled, without surface overturning. We extract the kinematics of wave breaking by identifying breaking fronts and their speed, for freely evolving wave fields initialised with typical wind wave spectra. The Λ(c) distribution, defined as the length of breaking fronts (per unit area) moving with speed c to c + dc following Phillips (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 156, 1985, pp. 505–531), is reported for a broad range of conditions. We recover the Λ(c) ∝ c−6 scaling without wind forcing for sufficiently steep wave fields. A scaling of Λ(c) based solely on the root-mean-square slope and peak wave phase speed is shown to describe the modelled breaking distributions well. The modelled breaking distributions are in good agreement with field measurements and the proposed scaling can be applied successfully to the observational data sets. The present work paves the way for simulations of the turbulent upper ocean directly coupled to a realistic breaking wave dynamics, including Langmuir turbulence, and other sub-mesoscale processes.

Jiarong Wu↗

Interaction of a strong blast wave with a free surface

When a point source explosion is initiated at the ocean surface, the shock propagated into the water is reflected at the surface as a centered expansion wave. The solution in the neighborhood of the interaction point is obtained by writing the equations of motion in the appropriate similarity variables and then changing the independent variables to polar coordinates based at the interaction point. From the zero-order solution of the resulting equations the slopes of boundaries at the interaction point are obtained. A first-order perturbation of this solution provides more accurate representation of the flow variables and the curvature of the shock surface near the interaction point.

Falade, A.↗

Impact Tsunami Calculations: Hydrodynamical Simulations vs. Linear Theory

Tsunamis generated by the impacts of asteroids and comets into the Earth oceans are widely recognized as a potential catastrophic hazard to the Earth s population. Our general conclusion is that linear theory is a reasonably accurate guide to behavior of tsunamis generated by impactors of moderate size, where the initial transient impact cavity is of moderate depth compared to the ocean depth. This is particularly the case for long wavelength waves that propagate fastest and would reach coastlines first. Such tsunamis would be generated in the open ocean by impactors of 300 meters in diameter, which might be expected to strike the Earth once every few thousand years, on the average. Larger impactors produce cavities deep enough to reach the ocean floor; even here, linear theory is applicable if the starting point is chosen at a later phase in the calculation when the impact crater has slumped back to produce a cavity of moderate depth and slope.

Korycansky, E.↗

(abstract) Role of Long Equatorial Wave Reflection in the Low-Frequency Variability Observed During the TOPEX/POSEIDON Period: Data Analysis and Coupled Model Study

The analysis of TOPEX/POSEIDON sea level and ERS-1 zonal wind stress data gives evidence that first mode meridonal long Rossby waves fully reflected into Kelvin waves at the equatorial western Pacific boundary at different periods including the January-June 1994 period. The evolution of the conditions (zonal wind stress, sea surface temperature and sea level anomalies) in the central Pacific suggests that this reflection may have played a role in the reversal of cold to warm anomalies observed in the central Pacific in June-July 1994. To investigate the actual role of reflected Kelvin waves observed by TOPEX/POSEIDON, a simple ocean-atmosphere coupled model is designed. Starting from these initial conditions, several simulations are run for testing the role western bundary reflection evidenced in TOPEX/POSEIDON data. Coupled mechanisms are suggested to explain the low-frequency variability observed during this period.

Rossby waves Kelvin waves zonal wind stress TOPEX/↗

Inference of physical/biological dynamics from synthetic ocean colour images

High resolution numerical experiments with well resolved eddies are performed including advection of a biologically active plankton field. Shelf wave propagation and bottom topographic features are included. The resulting synthetic ocean color fields are examined for sensitivity to the (known) underlying physical dynamics.

Eert, J.↗

Theory and application of calibration techniques for an NDBC directional wave measurements buoy

The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) deployed a 10-m-diameter discus-type hull in the Pacific Ocean some 185 km southwest of Los Angeles, CA, in April 1984. Aboard this hull was an electronic system capable of acquiring, processing, and transmitting to shore directional wave measurements. For this system to produce accurate data, a number of factors had to be taken into account. These factors included noise, amplitude and phase alterations due to mechanical and electrical components, and magnetic fields arising from the hull. Comprehensive calibration and verification techniques were developed and applied to ensure data quality. The system configuration is described with emphasis on the methods used in the data processing to correct for the various factors. Examples of the resulting corrected data are given.

Steele, K. E.↗

Geos 3 wave height measurements - An assessment during high sea state conditions in the North Atlantic

The sea state in the North Atlantic Ocean has been monitored in February, 1977 to obtain data for verification of Geos 3 radio altimeter wave form data. The altimeter sea state data were found to be in good agreement with in situ sea state measurements and with aircraft remote sensing measurements of wave height. The average difference between the supporting data and Geos 3 was 0.34 m, and the standard deviation 0.61 m. Contour maps of sea state constructed for large regions of the earth's oceans on the basis of Geos 3 altimeter measurements exhibited systematic differences from operationally available computerized maps. It is thought that the underestimation of significant wave height maxima in the operational maps and the underestimation of the speed of movement of oceanic cyclones may be due to basic errors in the output of atmospheric primitive-equation models. Because of the narrow swath width of the Geos-3 sensor, data from several satellite orbits must be combined to construct contour maps, leading to low values of significant wave heights.

Parsons, C. L.↗

Seasat-A - An ocean observation satellite

Mission details, onboard equipment, and measurements to be taken are described for the Seasat-A global ocean monitoring satellite. The satellite is designed for mapping the global ocean geoid, charting ice fields and leads, precision measurement of sea surface topography, global monitoring of wave height and wave directional spectra, surface winds and wind direction, current patterns, and ocean temperature. Data handling subsystems, a compressed pulse radar altimeter, coherent synthetic aperture imaging radar, microwave wind scatterometer, scanning visible/IR radiometer, scanning multispectral (5 freq) microwave radiometer mounted on the satellite are described briefly.

Williams, F. L.↗

Waves on Seas of Mars and Titan: Wind-Tunnel Experiments on Wind-Wave Generation in Extraterrestrial Atmospheres

The generation of waves by winds across Earth's water oceans is a topic of enduring fascination. However, the physics of the problem are rather forbidding and thus the relationships between real-world windspeed and sea state tend to be empirical. Such empirical relations are of limited utility in environments where the physical parameters are different, such as the surfaces of other planets. These environments have only recently come to oceanographers attention, with the discovery of ancient shorelines and lakes on Mars, and the prospects for and recent evidence of lakes and seas of liquid hydrocarbons on Saturn's moon Titan. We are aware of only one other published experimental wind-water tunnel study where the fluid parameters have been varied. This used artificially-generated mm-scale waves at 3.8-7.6 Hz in water, glycerol solutions (higher viscosity) and surfactant solutions (lower surface tension). Lower viscosity solutions had higher wave growth rates: surprisingly, higher surface tension led to more rapid wave growth. The liquid density was not appreciably varied, and 1 bar air was used throughout.We used the MARSWIT (Mars Wind Tunnel) operated by ASU at NASA Ames. A fiberglass tray (5 cm x 120 cm x 75 cm) was installed in the tunnel, with an approx. 1:5 ramp to prevent strong flow separation. The tray was filled to a depth of about 4 cm. Sensors were clamped to the tray itself or held by a steel and aluminium frame just above the water level. A towel was draped on the water surface at the downwind end of the tray to act as a damper to suppress wave reflection. Position-sensitive infrared (IR) reflection sensors (Sharp GP12D02) and ultrasonic rangers (Devantech DF-04) used in mobile robotics were used as water level sensors. The tray was observed with a video camera, whose output could be viewed on a monitor and recorded on VHS tape.

Lorenz, R. D.↗

Intraseasonal and interannual oscillations in coupled ocean-atmosphere models

An investigation is presented of coupled ocean-atmosphere models' behavior in an environment where atmospheric wave speeds are substantially reduced from dry atmospheric values by such processes as condensation-moisture convergence. Modes are calculated for zonally periodic, unbounded ocean-atmosphere systems, emphasizing the importance of an inclusion of prognostic atmosphere equations in simple coupled ocean-atmosphere models with a view to simulations of intraseasonal variability and its possible interaction with interannual variability. The dynamics of low and high frequency modes are compared; both classes are sensitive to the degree to which surface wind anomalies are able to affect the evaporation rate.

Hirst, Anthony C.↗

Seasat altimeter calibration - Initial results

Preliminary analysis of radar altimeter data indicates that the instrument has met its specifications for measuring spacecraft height above the ocean surface (plus or minus 10 centimeters) and significant wave height (plus or minus 0.5 meter). There is ample evidence that the radar altimeter, having undergone development through three earth orbit missions (Skylab, Geodynamics Experimental Ocean Satellite 3 and Seasat), has reached a level of precision that now makes possible its use for important quantitative oceanographic investigations and practical applications.

Tapley, B. D.↗

Adaptation of a general circulation model to ocean dynamics

A primitive-variable general circulation model of the ocean was formulated in which fast external gravity waves are suppressed with rigid-lid surface constraint pressires which also provide a means for simulating the effects of large-scale free-surface topography. The surface pressure method is simpler to apply than the conventional stream function models, and the resulting model can be applied to both global ocean and limited region situations. Strengths and weaknesses of the model are also presented.

Turner, R. E.↗

Diurnal tides in the Arctic Ocean

A 2D numerical model with a space grid of about 14 km is applied to calculate diurnal tidal constituents K(1) and O(1) in the Arctic Ocean. Calculated corange and cotidal charts show that along the continental slope, local regions of increased sea level amplitude, highly variable phase and enhanced currents occur. It is shown that in these local regions, shelf waves (topographic waves) of tidal origin are generated. In the Arctic Ocean and Northern Atlantic Ocean more than 30 regions of enhanced currents are identified. To prove the near-resonant interaction of the diurnal tides with the local bottom topography, the natural periods of oscillations for all regions have been calculated. The flux of energy averaged over the tidal period depicts the gyres of semitrapped energy, suggesting that the shelf waves are partially trapped over the irregularities of the bottom topography. It is shown that the occurrence of near-resonance phenomenon changes the energy flow in the tidal waves. First, the flux of energy from the astronomical sources is amplified in the shelf wave regions, and afterwards the tidal energy is strongly dissipated in the same regions.

Kowalik, Z.↗

Significant Dissipation of Tidal Energy in the Deep Ocean Inferred from Satellite Altimeter Data

How and where the ocean tides dissipate their energy are longstanding questions that have consequences ranging from the history of the Moon to the mixing of the oceans. Historically, the principal sink of tidal energy has been thought to be bottom friction in shallow seas. There has long been suggestive however, that tidal dissipation also occurs in the open ocean through the scattering by ocean-bottom topography of surface tides into internal waves, but estimates of the magnitude of this possible sink have varied widely. Here we use satellite altimeter data from Topex/Poseidon to map empirically the tidal energy dissipation. We show that approximately 10(exp 12) watts-that is, 1 TW, representing 25-30% of the total dissipation-occurs in the deep ocean, generally near areas of rough topography. Of the estimated 2 TW of mixing energy required to maintain the large-scale thermohaline circulation of the ocean, one-half could therefore be provided by the tides, with the other half coming from action on the surface of the ocean.

Egbert, G. D.↗

Mission design for SEASAT-A, an oceanographic satellite

SEASAT-A is a NASA earth satellite for measuring global ocean dynamics from space. Launch is planned for May 1978. The instruments on the spacecraft will provide data on wave height and direction, surface wind speed and direction, ice fields, ocean surface topography and weather. This paper is concerned with the mission design for SEASAT-A. A primary topic here is the selection of the orbit which best satisfies the measurement objectives of the various instruments. The maintenance of this orbit under drag and other perturbations is discussed. The design of the mission profile is outlined. Finally precision orbit determination for SEASAT-A is discussed since it is required to maximize ocean topography accuracy.

Cutting, E.↗

Earth physics, overview

Satellite applications in earth and ocean dynamic studies are considered for: earthquake hazard assessment and alleviation; prediction of general ocean circulation, surface currents, and heat transport; monitoring of transient phenomena of the ocean surface, such as sea state and wave conditions, wind-surface interactions and storm searches; and refinement of the global geoid, the gravity and magnetic fields of the earth.

Vonbun, F. O.↗